SOAK Academy — Module 11
MODULE 11 · YOUR GUIDE TO GEL

Gel, explained.

Modern gel systems are designed to deliver strong, natural-looking results while prioritising natural nail health when used correctly.

WHAT IS GEL?

A premixed acrylic system activated by light.

Gel is made up of acrylic monomers and oligomers — short chains of monomers — and remains semi-liquid or semi-solid until exposed to UV or LED light.

When placed under a lamp, the gel undergoes a chemical reaction called curing.

During this process, the molecules bond together — polymerise — transforming the gel from a liquid into a hard, chemical-resistant coating within seconds.

Although the term “gel” originally referred to the product’s texture, it is now used as a general category. Chemically, gel is essentially a premixed acrylic system that remains stable until activated by light.

WHAT HAPPENS DURING CURING

Liquid to solid in seconds.

This is the chemical reaction behind every gel service.
Diagram showing gel before curing, photoinitiators absorbing light and polymer chains hardening

Before curing, gel is liquid and workable. Light activates the photoinitiators, triggering free-radical polymerisation and creating a hardened structure.

01
Photo initiator absorbs UV light

The light activates the photo initiator inside the gel.

02
Free radical forms

The activated photo initiator releases a molecule fragment called a free radical.

03
Instability begins

The free radical creates instability within the gel.

04
Double bonds are attacked

The free radicals attack the double bonds in the resin.

05
Chains form

The bonds break and reconnect, forming long polymer chains.

06
Gel hardens

The chains create a solid structure — polymerisation — resulting in a stable, hardened gel enhancement.

THE TACKY / INHIBITION LAYER

The sticky layer is uncured gel.

After curing, you may notice a sticky layer on the surface. This is uncured gel caused by oxygen exposure.

  • Oxygen inhibits the top layer from fully curing
  • The layers underneath cure properly because they are not exposed to air
  • This is completely normal and is called the inhibition layer

However: if the layer is unusually thick, it may indicate under-curing. This can be caused by incorrect lamp output, incorrect wavelength or an aging lamp.

LAMPS

Your lamp is part of the system.

At SOAK, we use UV/LED hybrid lamps to ensure all gel systems cure correctly and consistently.
Illustration showing nails requiring lamp curing

The key difference between UV and LED gels comes down to photoinitiators — the ingredients inside the gel that react to light and start the curing process.

UV — ultraviolet light

Ultraviolet light sits outside what we can see. It exists on the electromagnetic spectrum between approximately 100–400 nm.

The purple light you see inside the lamp is only the visible edge — the actual UV light curing the gel is invisible.

LED

LED lamps emit a targeted UV-A wavelength.

SOAK LAMP STANDARD

365–405 nm.

At SOAK, we require the use of a high-quality lamp within the 365–405 nm range to ensure proper curing across all services.

Proper curing is not optional. It directly impacts:

  • Service longevity
  • Client safety
  • Risk of allergies and contact dermatitis

If a gel is under-cured, it may look set on the surface but remain reactive underneath, which can lead to skin irritation and long-term allergies.

Always ensure: you are using the correct lamp, your lamp is functioning properly, and you are curing for the full recommended time.

Your lamp is just as important as your product — never compromise on it.

ACRYLIC VS GEL

Same family. Different trigger.

All nail systems fall within the acrylate family, including acrylic, UV/LED gels and hybrid systems.

Acrylic — liquid & powder

  • Cures through a chemical reaction when liquid and powder combine
  • Strong odour due to volatile compounds

Gel — UV/LED systems

  • Pre-mixed system
  • Cures only when exposed to UV/LED light
  • Minimal odour due to low volatile compounds
GEL COMPONENTS

What's actually inside the system?

Each component has a job in how the gel behaves, stores and cures.
01

Photo Initiators

Ingredients that absorb UV/LED light and convert it into energy, triggering the curing process.

02

Energy Curable Resins

Semi-solid oligomers containing acrylic functional groups that cure when exposed to light energy.

03

Inhibitors

Prevent the gel from curing prematurely while in the bottle.

04

Stabilisers

Prevent discolouration and maintain product integrity over time.

05

Pigments

Provide colour. Light colours reflect light, dark colours absorb light, and some pigments are harder to cure.

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